Jerusalem update!

I've decided to write a few lines about what I've seen in the West
Bank, though I have not actually picked olives yet.

I have a feeling this will be a long email, so I'm going to write it
in sections, and may follow up with other sections soon.

=======================
Section One: Vocabulary

When I first arrived here, I did not know the meaning / differences
between "West Bank" and "Gaza."

The following are my definitions, and people may disagree with them.

Israel: a small country between the Mediterranean Sea on the west and
Jordan on the east.

Palestine: an even smaller country that is basically surrounded by
Israel.  Palestine is basically separated into two parts.  The parts
are "West Bank" and "Gaza" (or "Gaza Strip").

West Bank: the larger section of Palestine, which is on the west bank
of the Jordan river.  Hence the name, I believe.

Gaza: the smaller section of Palestine, on the Mediterranean Sea.

Occupation: Israeli soldiers with M-16 (?) machine guns are
ever-present in Palestine streets (and possibly Israel, but I haven't
been there).  In my experience, they are generally quiet, but will
answer questions if I ask.  Often they say, "I don't know; I'm not
from this area."

Checkpoints: Blockade or toll-plaza type places in the streets and
highways where traffic is stopped and checked by Israeli soldiers.
Some checkpoints completely disallow vehicular traffic from
passing. (*) see Qalandia Checkpoint below.

Flying Checkpoints: same as checkpoints, but erected on the whim of
the Israeli army.  I have seen these on highways, on sidewalks, on
city streets.

Settlers: Israeli citizens who (often for financial reasons) are given
housing from the Israeli government.  They are placed in areas that
would otherwise be called Palestine (according to my definition
above).  I have not met any settlers, but have heard some horrific
stories of unchecked settler aggression toward Palestinians and
Internationals.

Internationals: people who are not from Israel or Palestine, but who
would like to help stop the occupation of Palestine.

Olive Harvest: 'tis the season farmers pick olives from trees.
Sometimes settlers challenge Palestinian farmers for rights to the
land.  When Internationals are present with video cameras, settlers
seem less likely to be violent.

Refugee Camps: poor, cramped cities where displaced Palestinians have
been moved when Israel was formed, or more recently as Israel has
grown into previously Palestinian areas.

Apartheid: unequal application of rules / laws to racially separate
people.  From South Africa, but has been used to describe the
situation in Israel/Palestine.

Security Fence:
Separation Barrier:
Apartheid Wall:  a fence / wall 8 meters tall being constructed around Palestine.

further reading: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apartheid_wall

Intifada: An uprising of Palestinians against the apartheid in which
they have been living.  The first Intifada was from 1987 to 1992ish.
The second Intifada started in 2000, and is or is not finished
depending on who one asks.

=================================
Section Two:  Qalandia Checkpoint

I have been living in Faisal Hostel in Jerusalem.  It's near the Old
City of Jerusalem, where Jesus carried the cross before his
crucifixion back in the day.

Ramallah is a city about 18 kilometers (11 miles) north of Jerusalem.
Ramallah means hill of God.

There is a highway between Ramallah and Jerusalem, which would make
the trip take about 15 minutes by car.

However, there is a checkpoint on the highway, through which vehicles
may not pass.

To go from Jerusalem to Ramallah, everyone must get out of the vehicle
(taxi or bus, unless someone has a friend to drive their personal car
away) walk 100 meters past guards and through a one way gate, then
secure another vehicle to go the remaining 5 minutes to Ramallah.

To get from Ramallah to Jerusalem, everyone must get out of the
vehicle, walk 50 meters, go through a one way gate, through a metal
detector, show passport or ID to the soldiers, and then the remaining
50 meters to secure another vehicle on the other side.

It's called Qalandia Checkpoint, and rumor has suggested the security
could get even tighter on the way from Jerusalem to Ramallah.

==================
Section Three: ISM

ISM stands for International Solidarity Movement.  Their basic idea
involves having Internationals come to Palestine to stand with
Palestinians during the riotous Intifada.  Because the Intifada is no
longer riotous, and many "hard core" ISMers have been blacklisted and
cannot return to the country, ISM will reformulate itself after this
year's olive harvest.

I came to Palestine with the intention of joining other ISMers in
supporting the olive harvest.  At the training, I was surprised at the
content of the training.  We spent a great deal of time on topics like
protecting ourselves from tear gas, rubber bullets, and sound bombs.
We did role plays of de-arresting people by dogpiling a person the
soldiers are trying to arrest.  We spent a great deal of time learning
about our rights and about the chances of being arrested, what to
expect, and what to do in case we are arrested.

At the end, we came to the final question: "okay, where do you want
to go harvest olives?"

I decided I was not ready to put myself into a situation where I
might be arrested.  More specifically, I didn't want to be deported
without the chance of return.

================================
Section Four: Palestinian Vision

Instead of being an Activist, I have focused on being a writer.  Part
of that time has been writing and editing reports and grant requests
for Palestinian Vision, an NGO that focuses on empowering Palestinian
Youth to help them focus on living instead of being oppressed.

I learned of PalVision semi-directly from my voyage on Pb.  Niveen and
Eilat were selected by PalVision to sail on Pb and represent youth
voices in this conflict.  Niveen's passionate story brought me to
Palestine to see for myself what's going on.

====================
Section Five: Bil'in

Residents of a village called Bil'in gather every Friday (the first
day of their weekend) to peacefully protest construction of a wall
that (once completed) will separate the village from 60% of its
farmland, which will be given to the nearby Israeli settlement.

I've been to this demonstration twice, not as an active participant,
but as a photographer and videographer.  Each week, approximately the
same thing happened: soldiers stood in full riot gear at the top of a
hill while villagers and at least as many internationals chanted in
Arabic and held signs.  I was one of many recording the event,
basically ignored by everyone involved.

After the chanting, the demonstration splits up into people who go
home, and people who spread out over the land.  The soldiers spread
out with them.  Some people (who may be a villagers or may be Israeli
sympathetic and trying to stir up trouble) throw rocks at the soldiers
who wait for a bit and then shoot rubber bullets and tear gas at the
rock throwers.

The first time I attended (two weeks ago), I tried to stay well away
from the conflict, but at one point found myself right in the middle
of it!  Unfortunately with dead batteries in both my still camera and
video camera because I had recorded so much other stuff.  I wasn't hit
by anything, but I did get a couple long moments with tear gas.

The second time I attended (last week), I recorded some of the action,
and then honestly got rather bored and just sat near the top of the
hill near where some soldiers were standing around waiting for
instruction.

Suddenly, <em>!*WHAM*!</em> I felt a shocking blow on my shoulder!  It
was more surprising than painful, but had it hit *anywhere* else on my
body, it would have produced serious pain and likely injury.  It
struck exactly on the muscle between my neck and shoulder.  Truly
thankful, truly blessed, I thanked my angels for the easy lesson.

Several soldiers came to ask if I was okay; I assured everyone I was fine.

The week before, a man named Joe was hit by a stone in the stomach.
Palestinian doctors repaired his spleen and stapled the incision shut
on his abdomen.  He is sitting across from me and showed everyone his
scar - about five inches long.

====================

I think that's enough for one installment.  Blessings and love to all.

    - Rob!