Vietnam has been the best stop so far (Hong Kong, Danang, Singapore). People were friendly, roads were bumpy and chaotic, little 8 to 12 year old kids hardselling postcards, silk things, tiger balm, .. anything they could carry around. I must say they were quite well practiced with quick lines and little pouty faces that could wrench money from the coldest heart.
I bought custom made sandals for 95,000 d. (about US$7) and I love them. There’s nothing to them, just leather on rubber soles and blue leather straps, but they’re just my size and quite comfy.
Some of the girls were fitted for dresses, and Shawn got himself a white linen suit, and a brown linen shirt. He said one of his life goals was to own a white linen suit; I look forward to seeing him in it! (I can imagine Fred wearing it to the next nin concert he attends!)
In Vietnam, we visited a school which was built using funds from one of the previous Peace Boat fundraising campaigns. Two rooms with blackboards and desks, plus another building about the same size, though I don’t know what was in it. Most impressive at that ceremony was how well behaved the kids were! Lined up on the sidewalk, squatting and waiting for over an hour in the hot sun for what must have been a boring school-opening ceremony… without complaint! I was completely impressed and amazed at their remarkably good behavior!
After the ceremony, GET teachers visited the classrooms and had a spontaneous lesson in each room: greetings in one and “head shoulders knees and toes” sung in the other. After that, we chowed lovely delicious fresh fruit and for the first time I had something called michi (in Vietnamese, I think) or jackfruit in English. Maryann suggested that it looks like yellow peppers, which seems more accurate that banana peels, which is what I suggested. The teachers seemed well-divided between love and hate on the jackfruit debate. I joined the love team and chowed probably 6 of them. (on top of the pineapple slices and some of the little fruits that janette and I encountered in Hawaii).
A river was discovered nearby the school and Greg went for a swim.. the rest of us cheered him on and a couple people waded. I monitored my brainwaves’ disgust at the motorboat (engine enclosed in a wooden box on a mere large wooden canoe of a boat) being used to ferry people and bicycles across while people swam in the murky water, plus a woman on the side washing her fresh vegetables (leafy greens) in the water. Memories of Carla’s adventure along the Ganges in India make my story a well-cleansed hospital in comparison, but still. Eww.
That night we got a hotel for US$4 per person, and we each got our own double bed! Fun wandering around Hoi An again and I went to be early so I could have more of a day to myself the next day.
I woke up early and went to see Tam and asked her to get me a motorbike driver for the day. We negotiated a bit to get me a good price that included going back to the ship (near Danang in Tien Sa). Basically US$6 for all that. Not sure if it’s the best price ever, but I was certainly happy with the arrangement.
Ninh (pronounced somewhere between “nun” and “non”), my driver, couldn’t speak a lot of English, but we got around fine: he took me to a nearly private beach where I indulged myself with a foot massage, mango shake and fresh pineapple, 40,000 d., 5,000 d. and 5,000 d. respectively. The pineapple was sold to me by a young boy named Long (“my name Long; you remember Long.”) and I absolutely didn’t want the pineapple, given that I wasn’t hungry and just wanted to stroll around the beach alone. He asked for 15,000 d. at first, but finally dropped his price to 5,000 dong (US$ 0.33) and I still said no. He offered to take my picture, an offer I accepted, and I don’t know if he intended to ask me for money, but I gave him a dollar for his efforts and a hopeful intention that it would in fact help his life.
I headed back to the roofed area and was presented with the opportunity to buy more things (massage, shake, bracelets). I ended up paying way too much for the bracelet (sucker!) but the rest was lovely.
We headed back by way of a cafe, or maybe the cafe was first, but in any case, the very coolest thing occurred: I spoke Japanese with a Vietnamese waitress in the cafe! It wasn’t much of a conversation – just when and where and how long we studied. She had been much more intense with her studies and had more vocabulary than me, but I loved being able to do that.
We stopped by Tam’s again on the way out of town, for final goodbyes. She gave me a hematite necklace!!! Holy moly. I was just beyond words surprised and blessed.
After that, Ninh took me to Marble Mountain, where marble is quarried to be carved into lions, fish, balls, fountains, Buddhas, chess sets, jewelry, plates, bowls, etc etc. He announced that he would meet me in one hour, and I must admit I felt a bit afraid that I wouldn’t get back on the ship in time. I visualized myself happily exchanging stories onboard, and left it at that. I bought nothing but a ticket up the mountain (1000 d. I think) and wow. It was really cool. I love climbing, so it was perfect for me. Not like rock climbing with ropes, but rock hopping with bare feet. I scampered up the large steps and got to a three way fork in the trail. One way had a cave, and the other two ways went up (if I recall correctly) and I chose one of the not-cave ways randomly. I climbed some more and found a cave entrance which I entered, a bit concerned about the floor as I couldn’t see where my feet were headed in the dark, to find a standing Buddha-esque statue standing in a vertical column about 50 feet tall and 3 meters in diameter. The walls boasted names painted or carved into the rock. Past the statue was an opening that went nearly vertically upward (with step-like rocks that made it easy) and I ascended to a lovely view of the ocean. Beyond lovely: it was absolutely gorgeous with gentle waves visiting the shore and a village mixed with trees and lovely plains on the other side.
I could have stayed much longer, but I had an appointment with Ninh and a boat, so I scampered back down the mountain and steps, barefootin’ it all the way, much to my soles’ delight. I was offered surprisingly good prices on a waterfountain, which, if it was the actual price, and had I a way to bring it home, I would have taken her up on it. Like US$20 for a carved marble fountain 4 feet tall and a sphere on top that spun in the water. Wow. A bit pricey to get it shipped home, I’m guessing. (ps: that price might have been misunderstood or misremembered) Vietnam is *definitely* a country I wish to visit again for a few weeks. Camping and biking around sounds *great*.